It was the 1950s in Italy. The years of good taste, of refined craftsmanship, and of the economic boom that fueled all those desires. Italians, especially Italian women, sought out craftsmanship. made in There, and foreigners would follow their lead to copy that distinctive style of handmade. And in the center of Rome, where all this activity bustled, The Lembo family had the first perfumery opened in the city. Maurizio LemboSince he was a child, he has been exploring Guerlain, Chanel, Lanvin, Coty… His nose has learned from a very early age. And with all that experience, he launched his own brand in 2001: Officina delle EssenzeWhere the past is contaminated by modernity in an exercise in neoclassicism perfumery, as Maurizio likes to say, totally rooted in Italy.
What do the Officina delle Essenze offices smell like?
They smell good, of course (smiles). Anyone who comes to our headquarters in Rome asks us, "What is this perfume?"
The wonder of this world [that of perfume] is its transversality. Anyone can appreciate the goodness of an essenceFrom the most unconscious consumer to the most technical and informed, including the insiders, etc. Each one with their own olfactory memory, each one with their own sensitivity, with their own tastes.
Our offices are now scented with Orange Cinnamon, one of our most popular home fragrances. Perfect for this time of year!
What is the Italian know-how (know-how) and what does it consist of?
It's about being passionate about something and learning how to do it better. Taking the best raw materials and shaping them with creativity and originality... et voilà, this is Made in Italy.
We were fortunate to be born and raised in the world's largest artisan forge. Continuing the tradition is an honor, but also a responsibility and a choice.
To earn more, some prefer to take their production abroad. We prefer a more ethical approach, continuing not only to produce in Italy, but also relying on Italian artisans. for the creation of bottles, containers, etc. This is authentic Made in Italy!
How do you begin creating a perfume? Do you start with tradition or with surprise?
We draw on both and much more. The inspiration for creating a perfume often comes from life's experiences. When something moves you, inspiration takes hold. This was the case with Pure Talc either Pure Linen, For example.
Other times, they're more stylistic exercises. That is, there may be a desire to try one's hand with a raw material you've come into contact with, or a desire to reinterpret a particular note.
The tradition of perfumery is still very much alive in me, Because it was part of my initial olfactory knowledge. Thanks to the time I spent in the family shop, the first perfumery in Rome during the 1950s. What I love is to contaminate tradition with modernity in a kind of neoclassicism applied to perfumery..
"We prefer a more ethical approach, continuing not only to produce in Italy, but also relying on Italian artisans for the creation of bottles, packaging, etc. This is authentic. Made in Italy!"
What is the first ingredient you choose to create a perfume from scratch?
The truth is that it changes every time. Some compositions have a central element that defines the fragrance. This is the case with OsmarineFor example, the predominant marine note is combined for the first time with the Osmanthus flower.
In other cases there are no central elements, but You have fun creating a chord of essences to give life to more complex and unique smells, which perhaps interpret a sensationThis is the case of Pure Linen, For example, more than 20 olfactory notes come into play to create the suggestion of clean white sheets hanging to dry in the sun in a field of flowers.
How much is intuition and how much is science and technology?
Technique is the foundation upon which any creation is built. Without the technical foundations, nothing can be achieved.. Intuition, instinct, creative style are undoubtedly the next step, what gives originality to the creation of a perfume.
You were talking about perfumes that interpret a sensation. How many interpretations does an olfactory note have?
One note can be interpreted in infinite ways. It's the magic of this world! How many vanilla-based fragrances have been created to date? Yet every year, new ones are invented, sometimes with nuances never heard before.
If interpretations are so personal and endless, can perfumes have a predefined gender?
If we talk about artistic perfumery, I think it is wrong to talk about perfumes for men or perfumes for women.That's why the philosophy with which I've always approached fragrance creation doesn't take into account a person's gender. We work with emotions and suggestions in mind.
The last ten years, in particular, demonstrate that an approach to fragrances based on scent type or suggestion, rather than commercial classification, is becoming increasingly common. We hope that this trend will soon spread to commercial perfumery as well, with all due respect to those involved in market research and the marketing for the masses.
"The philosophy with which I've always approached fragrance creation doesn't consider a person's gender. We work with emotions and suggestions in mind."
Are you influenced by the market and trends?
At all. I am an independent perfumer and, as such, free to make my own artistic and creative decisions.. Following trends is not very stimulating, a bit like walking down a familiar, busy street. Officina delle Essenze We prefer to venture down unknown paths, but exciting and full of discoveries.
And how can one stay in artistic and independent perfumery when there is such a bombardment of products from major brands?
The perfume industry, which I personally prefer to define as “independent,” was born many years ago as a reaction to the phenomenon you mention in the question.Unfortunately, the same phenomenon is happening in the niche world today, and many brands that once identified as niche are no longer so.
I'm always surprised to see more than one perfume launched by the same brand each year, sometimes three or four. Where has that past, when the conception and launch of an artistic creation were considered special, gone? But there's still a core of perfume houses that remain faithful to those principles. For me, this is my "home," and I wouldn't know how to work any other way.
How can you become exclusive and accessible?
I believe that a quality perfume shouldn't be something accessible only to a select few. I'm convinced that "niche" doesn't mean "luxury," just as I'm convinced that perfume lovers are very normal people. Making this world inaccessible to most people is a mistake. and, above all, an injustice.
Since I was born, I have believed that Officina delle Essenze should express itself with a collection of quality perfumes at the most affordable price possible, and after twenty years I am even more convinced of this choice.
Exclusivity, on the other hand, must be achieved with correct distribution. that includes partners capable of transmitting the same values and the same passion, as in the case of Laconicum.
"Making this world [of perfumery] inaccessible to most people is a mistake and, above all, an injustice."
What was the most difficult perfume for you to create?
As each fragrance represented a challenge in the precise period in which it was made, to date it has been Oud Gourmand [available at the Discovery Kit]. Keeping together the two opposing worlds I wanted to represent with this fragrance, the sweetness of vanilla and the wood of Oud, required a lot of effort, both technically and emotionally.
What perfume would you recommend for someone who wants to get started in the world of Officina delle Essenze?
It's impossible to answer with just one fragrance. The advice I can give to those who want to try something new is to do so without prejudice, simply approach the experience like a child. Smell with your nose but listen with your heart, without being influenced by the technical aspects that perfume brings with it..
Let yourself be moved. If the perfume speaks to you, if it stirs up some memories, you'll feel it. And above all, give perfumes the right moment to express themselves. Don't judge them at first. Like songs that stand the test of time, they may not convince you at first, but over time, they enter your heart more and more.
What is your iconic perfume?
Definitely Pure Linen, my first creationAs they say, first love is never forgotten!
"If a perfume tells you something, if it awakens some memories, you'll feel it. And above all, give perfumes the right moment to express themselves. Don't judge them at first glance."
What would you say to someone who doesn't know Officina delle Essenze?
For those who are not familiar with us, I suggest you start doing so, perhaps by purchasing the Discovery Kit containing a sample of all 12 Eau de Parfums. I hope you can find your fragrance there.
And to those who know you very well?
To those who know us and have already chosen us, to the Spanish public in particular, a heartfelt thank you. Thanks to you too. Officina delle Essenze This year, we're celebrating our twentieth anniversary. A great achievement for a small, artisanal brand like ours!
