Are you lost among acids, peptides, and vitamins? Do you think NAD is the name of a pop star? Can't tell the difference between retinol and bakuchiol? We'll tell you which ingredients work and, even better, which simple products contain them .
Before we begin: what are active ingredients?
When we talk about cosmetics, the word "active" is often mentioned. Understanding what this term means is the first step on this journey. Active ingredients are what do the hard work in your product: they deeply hydrate, stimulate collagen, lighten dark spots, or soothe redness, to name a few examples. The rest are excipients (texture, preservation, fragrance). In other words, the active ingredients are like the clothes, and everything else is like the accessories. And we need them all.
A simple tip: On labels, ingredients are listed in order of highest to lowest concentration. If your star ingredient is at the end of the list, don't expect miracles.
The 8 ingredients you should know:
1. Hyaluronic acid: hydration multiplied by 1000
- What it does : It retains up to 1000 times its weight in water. It's the most powerful moisturizer available.
- For whom : All skin types. Literally, all.
- How to use : On damp skin (you need water to draw on).
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Essential products : Prescription Skincare Hyaluronic Acid 5% + DMAE 1% . High concentration with added firming effect.
2. Vitamin C: light, light, and more light
- What it does : It's a powerful antioxidant that brightens, evens skin tone, stimulates collagen, and protects against environmental damage.
- For whom : Dull skin, with blemishes and in need of extra protection.
- How to use it : In the morning, before sunscreen. And no, it doesn't stain in summer (myth debunked).
The best products:
- Pai Skincare's Stabilized Vitamin C 20% : One of the highest concentrations on the market. Oily texture (perfect for mixing) and suitable for sensitive skin.
- Vegan Yuja Vitamin C Brightening Serum by Hyeja: Yuja with triple the vitamin C of lemon. Large size, ultra-light texture, ideal for sensitive skin.
- Goop's 20% Vitamin C + Hyaluronic Acid Glow Serum : You mix the powder with the serum for maximum freshness. Gwyneth calls it "next level," and she's right.
3. Retinol and Bakuchiol: the great superhero
- What retinol does : It's a powerful skin-transforming ingredient. It stimulates collagen, reduces wrinkles, improves texture, and lightens dark spots.
- What is the function of bakuchiol ? Identical to retinol, but without photosensitivity and without an adaptation period. It is a natural alternative.
- For whom : Mature skin or skin with the first visible signs of aging.
- How to use them : Use retinol only at night and don't forget the mandatory sun protection the next day. You can apply bakuchiol whenever you want.
Featured products:
- Essential Shock Intense Retinol Night Renewal by Natura Bissé: Encapsulated retinol (0.1%) + bakuchiol (0.5%) + glycolic acid (5%). The best of everything concentrated in a serum. Silky and luxurious texture.
- Rassa's Moon Oil Rosemary & Bakuchiol : A relaxing night oil that promotes sleep while regenerating your skin. The aroma is wonderful.
4. Rosehip: natural regeneration
- What it does : Rich in Omega 3, 6, 7, 9 + vitamins A and C. Regenerates tissues, reduces scars, stretch marks, blemishes.
- For whom : Skin with acne marks, scars, stretch marks, sun damage. It's also excellent for oily skin (yes, oils aren't just for dry skin).
The absolute king:
- Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate : Laconicum's best-selling product for years. It's not just any rosehip oil because Pai blends the seed and fruit (5 times more carotenoids) using a unique technique. Multi-award-winning, it works on all skin types, even acne-prone skin.
- Light Work by Pai : Cleanser with rosehip oil. Removes makeup without dragging, moisturizes while cleansing. A best-seller.
- Feather Canyon by Pai : Eye contour with rosehip + hyaluronic acid.
5. Peptides: messengers of youth
- What they do : They send signals to your skin to regenerate. They stimulate collagen and elastin, and we know that this translates into a firming and plumping effect.
- For whom : Mature skin or skin with loss of firmness.
Products with peptides:
- The Cream by Augustinus Bader : A cult classic. TFC8® technology (amino acids + peptides + vitamins). Creates the perfect environment for your skin to regenerate itself.
- Peptides 5% by Pai Skincare : Pure firming concentrate. Suitable for all skin types.
- NAD+ & TriPeptide Renewal Serum by Pai : Revitalizing and regenerating serum.
- Bonne Nuit de Pai : Night cream with peptides + relaxing aroma (rose, lavender, cedar).
6. Aloe vera: the universal soother
- What it does : The active ingredient derived from this plant hydrates, soothes, regenerates, and is anti-inflammatory. Much more than after-sun lotion.
- For whom : Sensitive, irritated skin, skin with rosacea, after sun exposure or shaving.
7. Niacinamide: the all-rounder
- What it does : Everything and all well: regulates sebum, minimizes pores, evens skin tone, brightens and strengthens the skin barrier.
- For whom : Oily, combination skin, with enlarged pores, blemishes.
Featured products:
- Prescription Skincare Niacinamide 7% : It has a potent concentration in serum format.
8. Natural oils: nutrition from nature
- What they do : Each oil has its own unique fatty acid profile. They all nourish, protect, and create a protective barrier. And they leave a beautiful tone.
- For whom : All skin types, including, oh surprise, oily skin, which can benefit from specific oils.
Essential oils:
- Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate : We've already mentioned it. It deserves to be on this list as a pure oil as well.
- Rassa Moon Oil Rosemary & Bakuchiol : Blend of oils (lemon, sweet almond) + bakuchiol + rosemary.
How to combine them: routines that work
Morning routine
- Cleaning
- Stabilized Vitamin C Serum 20%
- Moisturizer (if needed)
- Sun protection (non-negotiable)
Night routine
- Cleaning with Pai Light Work
- Essential Shock Intense Retinol or Midnight Courage
- Bonne Nuit by Pai or The Cream by Augustinus Bader
Combinations that enhance
- Hyaluronic acid + Rosehip: Lumilixir by day + Rosehip BioRegenerate by night
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Retinol + Bakuchiol: Essential Shock Intense Retinol (already combined)
Combinations to separate
- Nighttime Retinol / Daytime Vitamin C: Different times, better effectiveness
- Retinol + Chemical Exfoliants: Together they can cause irritation
Choose according to your skin type
- Dry skin: Rosehip BioRegenerate + The Cream by Augustinus Bader
- Oily/acne-prone skin: Moon Oil Rosemary & Bakuchiol + Niacinamide 7%
- Sensitive skin: Vegan Yuja Vitamin C + Aloe Vera Gel + The Anthemis by Pai
- Mature skin: Essential Shock Intense Retinol + Peptides 5% + NAD+ & TriPeptide Renewal by Pai
Conclusion: less is more (if you choose well)
You don't need 20 products with 50 ingredients. You need the right ingredients in products that work. Now that you know the 8 essentials, you can build an effective, simple, and results-driven routine. Plus, you'll enjoy following it—that's important too.
Discover all these products at laconicum.com
Quick FAQ
Can I use all these ingredients at once?
We don't recommend overdoing it with ingredients in a single day. Alternate: vitamin C during the day, retinol at night. Hyaluronic acid will work well with everything.
How long does it take for them to work?
Moisturizers: immediate. Vitamin C: 2-4 weeks. Retinol/peptides: 8-12 weeks.
Are natural ingredients better?
Natural doesn't always mean better. What matters is the quality of the ingredients and the formulation.
Do I need to change products in the summer?
Not necessarily. Keep the vitamin C (it protects from the sun) and use retinol with sunscreen the next day. In hot weather, you might prefer lighter textures.
What should I do if a product irritates my skin?
Stop using it immediately and return to your basic routine. If the problem persists, consult a dermatologist.
By: Anabel Vázquez
co-founder of Laconicum
