It was the 50s in Italy. The years of good taste, of the refinement of craftsmanship and of the economic boom that fueled all those desires. Italians, especially Italian women, looked for crafts made in there, and foreigners came to follow their trail to copy that style so characteristic of what was made by hand. And in the center of Rome, where all this activity was bustling, the Lembo family had the first perfume shop open in the city. Maurizio Lembo , since he was little, he moved between Guerlain, Chanel, Lanvin, Coty... his nose learned from very early on. And with all that record, he set out to create his own signature in 2001:
What do the offices of Officina delle Essenze ?
smell like?
They smell good, of course (smiles). Anyone who approaches our headquarters in Rome asks us "what is this perfume?".
The wonder of this world [that of perfume] is transversality. Anyone can appreciate the goodness of an essence. From the most unconscious consumer to the most technical and informed, passing through the insiders, etc. Each one with his own olfactory memory, each one with his own sensitivity, with his own tastes
Our offices are now scented with Orange Cinnamon, one of our best-known home fragrances. Perfect for this time of year!
What is Italian know-how (know-how) and what does it consist of?
It consists of being passionate about something and learning to do it better. Take the best raw materials, shape them with creativity and originality... et voilà, this is made in Italy.
We were lucky to be born and raised in the largest artisan forge in the world. Continuing tradition is an honor, but also a responsibility and a choice.
To earn more, some prefer to take their production abroad. We prefer a more ethical approach, continuing not only to produce in Italy, but also relying on Italian artisans for the creation of bottles, packaging, etc. This is authentic made in Italy!
How do you start creating a perfume? Do you start from tradition or surprise?
We start from both and much more. The inspiration for creating a perfume often comes from experiences acquired throughout life. When something excites you, inspiration takes over. This was the case of Puro Talco or Puro Lino, for example.
Other times they are more style exercises. That is, there may be the desire to try your luck with a raw material that you have come into contact with, or the desire to reinterpret a certain note.
The tradition of perfumery is still very much alive in me, because it was part of my initial olfactory knowledge. Thanks to the time spent in the family store, the first perfumery in Rome during the 1950s. What I love is contaminating tradition with modernity in a kind of neoclassicism applied to perfumery.
"We prefer a more ethical approach, continuing not only to produce in Italy, but also relying on Italian artisans to create the bottles, packaging, etc. This is authentic made in Italy!"
What is the first ingredient you choose to create a perfume from scratch?
The truth is that it changes every time. Some compositions have a central element that marks the fragrance. This is the case of Osmarine, for example, the predominant marine note is combined for the first time with the Osmanthus flower.
In other cases there are no central elements, but you have fun creating an accord of essences to give life to more complex and unique smells, which perhaps interpret a sensation. This is the case of Puro Lino, for example, more than 20 olfactory notes come into play to obtain the suggestion of clean white sheets hanging to dry in the sun in a field of flowers.
How much is intuition and how much is science and technique?
Technique is the foundation on which the foundation of any creation is built. Without the technical foundations, nothing can be achieved. Intuition, instinct, creative style are undoubtedly the next step, which gives originality to the creation of a perfume.
You were talking about perfumes that interpret a sensation, how many interpretations does an olfactory note have?
A note can be interpreted in infinite ways. It's the magic of this world! How many vanilla-based fragrances have been created to date? However, every year new ones are invented, sometimes with nuances never heard before.
If interpretations are so personal and infinite, can perfumes have a predefined gender?
If we talk about artistic perfumery, I think it is wrong to talk about perfumes for men or perfumes for women, which is why the philosophy with which I have always approached the creation of fragrances does not contemplates the sex of people. We work thinking about emotions and suggestions.
The last ten years, in particular, demonstrate that an approach to fragrances by type of smell or suggestion, rather than by commercial classification, is increasingly common. We hope that this trend will soon spread in commercial perfumery as well, with all due respect to those involved in market research and marketing to the masses.
"The philosophy with which I have always approached the creation of fragrances does not consider people's sex. We work thinking about emotions and suggestions."
Are you influenced by the market and trends?
Not at all. I am an independent perfumer and, as such, free to make my own artistic and creative decisions. Following trends is not very stimulating, a bit like walking down a familiar and busy street. With
And how can one stay in artistic and independent perfumery when there is such a bombardment of products from the big brands?
The perfumery that, personally, I prefer to define as “independent”, was born many years ago as a reaction to the phenomenon you mention in the question.Unfortunately, today in the niche world the same phenomenon is happening and many brands that were once identified as niche are no longer niche.
I am always surprised to see more than one perfume a year launched by the same brand, sometimes 3 or 4. Where has gone that past that understood the conception and launch of a creation as spatial? artistic? But there is still a hard core of a perfume house still faithful to those criteria. For my part, this is my “home” and I wouldn't know how to work any other way.
How can you become exclusive and accessible?
I believe that a quality perfume should not be something accessible only to a few. I am convinced that "niche" does not mean "luxury", just as I am convinced that perfume lovers are very normal people. Making this world inaccessible to the majority of people is a mistake and, above all, an injustice.
Since I was born, I have believed that
Exclusivity, on the other hand, must be achieved with correct distribution that includes partners capable of transmitting the same values and the same passion, as in the case of Laconicum.
"Making this world [that of perfumery] inaccessible to the majority of people is a mistake and, above all, an injustice."
What was the perfume that was most difficult for you to create?
Since each fragrance represented a challenge in the precise period in which it was made, to date it has been Oud Gourmand [available in the Discovery Kit]. Keeping together the two opposite worlds that I wanted to represent with this fragrance, the sweetness of vanilla and the wood of Oud, required a lot of effort, both technically and emotionally.
What perfume would you recommend for someone who wants to get started in the world of Officina delle Essenze ?
Impossible to answer with a single fragrance. The advice I can give to those who want to try something new is to do so without prejudice, simply approaching the experience like a child. Smell with your nose but listen with your heart, without being influenced by the technical aspects that perfume brings with it.
Let yourself be moved. If the perfume tells you something, if it awakens some memories, you will feel it. And above all, it gives perfumes the right moment to express themselves. Don't judge them at first. Like songs that stand the test of time, at first listening to them they may not convince you, but over time they enter more and more into one's heart.
What is your iconic perfume?
Definitely Puro Lino, my first creation. As they say, first love is never forgotten!
"If the perfume tells you something, if it awakens some memories in you, you will feel it. And above all, give perfumes the right moment to express themselves. Don't judge them at first glance."
What would you say to someone you don't know Officina delle Essenze ?
For those who are not familiar with us, I suggest you start doing so, perhaps by purchasing the Discovery Kit which contains a sample of all 12 Eau de Parfums . I hope you can find its fragrance there.
And to those who know you very well?
To those who know us and have already chosen us, to the Spanish public in particular, a most sincere thank you. Also thanks to you
