It was the 1950s in Italy. The years of good taste, of the refinement of craftsmanship and of the economic boom that fueled all these desires. Italians, especially Italian women, sought out craftsmanship. made in there, and foreigners came to follow their lead to copy that style so characteristic of the handmade. And in the center of Rome, where all this activity was bustling, The Lembo family had the first perfumery opened in the city. Maurizio Lembo, since he was a child, he moved between Guerlain, Chanel, Lanvin, Coty… His nose learned from a very early age. And with all that experience, he launched his own firm in 2001: Office of Essenze. Where the past is contaminated by modernity in an exercise of neoclassicism perfumery, as Maurizio likes to say, totally rooted in Italy.
What do the Officina delle Essenze offices smell like?
They smell good, of course (smiles). Anyone who comes to our headquarters in Rome asks us "what is this perfume?"
The wonder of this world [of perfume] is its transversality. Anyone can appreciate the goodness of an essence. From the most unconscious consumer to the most technical and informed, passing through the insiders, etc. Each one with his own olfactory memory, each one with his own sensitivity, with his own tastes..
Our offices are now scented with Orange Cinnamon, one of our most popular home fragrances. Perfect for this time of year!
What is the Italian know-how (know-how) and what does it consist of?
It's about being passionate about something and learning how to do it better. Taking the best raw materials, shaping them with creativity and originality... and there you have it, this is Made in Italy.
We were lucky enough to be born and raised in the largest forge of artisans in the world. Continuing the tradition is an honour, but also a responsibility and a choice.
In order to earn more, some prefer to take their production abroad. We prefer a more ethical approach, continuing not only to produce in Italy, but also to rely on Italian craftsmen. for the creation of bottles, containers, etc. This is authentic Made in Italy!
How do you start creating a perfume? Do you start from tradition or from surprise?
We start from both and much more. The inspiration for the creation of a perfume often comes from experiences acquired throughout life. When something excites you, inspiration takes over. This was the case with Pure Talc either Pure Linen, For example.
Other times they are more stylistic exercises. That is, there may be a desire to try your luck with a raw material you have come into contact with, or a desire to reinterpret a certain note.
The tradition of perfumery is still very much alive in me, because it was part of my initial olfactory knowledge. Thanks to the time spent in the family shop, the first perfumery in Rome during the 1950s. What I love is contaminating tradition with modernity in a kind of neoclassicism applied to perfumery..
"We prefer a more ethical approach, continuing not only to produce in Italy, but also relying on Italian craftsmen for the creation of bottles, packaging, etc. This is authentic. Made in Italy!"
What is the first ingredient you choose to create a perfume from scratch?
The truth is that it changes every time. Some compositions have a central element that marks the fragrance. This is the case of OsmarineFor example, the predominant marine note is combined for the first time with the Osmanthus flower.
In other cases there are no central elements, but You have fun creating an accord of essences to give life to more complex and unique smells, which perhaps interpret a sensation. This is the case of Pure Linen, For example, more than 20 olfactory notes come into play to obtain the suggestion of clean white sheets hung out to dry in the sun in a field of flowers.
How much is intuition and how much is science and technology?
Technique is the foundation on which any creation is built. Without the technical foundations, nothing can be achieved.. Intuition, instinct, creative style are undoubtedly the next step, what gives originality to the creation of a perfume.
You were talking about perfumes that interpret a sensation, how many interpretations does an olfactory note have?
One note can be interpreted in infinite ways. It's the magic of this world! How many vanilla-based fragrances have been created to date? However, new ones are invented every year, sometimes with nuances never heard before.
If interpretations are so personal and infinite, can perfumes have a predefined gender?
If we talk about artistic perfumery, I think it is wrong to talk about perfumes for men or perfumes for women.That's why the philosophy with which I have always approached the creation of fragrances does not take into account the gender of the person. We work with emotions and suggestions in mind.
The last ten years in particular have shown that an approach to fragrances by scent type or suggestion, rather than by commercial classification, is becoming more and more common. We hope that this trend will soon extend to commercial perfumery as well, with all due respect to those involved in market research and development. marketing for the masses.
"The philosophy with which I have always approached the creation of fragrances does not take into account the gender of the person. We work with emotions and suggestions in mind."
Are you influenced by the market and trends?
At all. I am an independent perfumer and, as such, free to make my own artistic and creative decisions.. Following trends is not very stimulating, a bit like walking down a well-known and busy street. Office of Essenze We prefer to venture down unknown paths, but they are exciting and full of discoveries.
And how can one remain in the artistic and independent perfumery when there is such a bombardment of products from the big brands?
Perfumery, which I personally prefer to define as “independent”, was born many years ago as a reaction to the phenomenon you mention in the question.Unfortunately, the same phenomenon is happening in the niche world today and many brands that once identified themselves as niche are no longer so.
I am always surprised to see more than one perfume launched per year by the same brand, sometimes 3 or 4. Where has that past that understood the conception and launch of an artistic creation as spatial gone? But there is still a core group of perfume houses that is still faithful to these criteria. For my part, this is my “house” and I wouldn’t know how to work any other way.
How can you become exclusive and accessible?
I believe that a quality perfume should not be something accessible only to a few. I am convinced that "niche" does not mean "luxury", just as I am convinced that perfume lovers are very normal people. Making this world inaccessible to most people is a mistake. and, above all, an injustice.
Since I was born, I have believed that Officina delle Essenze should express itself with a collection of quality perfumes at the most accessible price possible, and after twenty years I am even more than convinced of this choice.
Exclusivity, on the other hand, must be achieved with correct distribution. which includes partners capable of transmitting the same values and the same passion, as in the case of Laconicum.
"Making this world [of perfumery] inaccessible to the majority of people is a mistake and, above all, an injustice."
Which perfume was the most difficult for you to create?
Since each fragrance represented a challenge in the precise period in which it was made, to date it has been Oud Gourmand [available in the Discovery Kit]. Keeping together the two opposite worlds that I wanted to represent with this fragrance, the sweetness of vanilla and the wood of Oud, required a lot of effort, both technically and emotionally.
What perfume would you recommend for someone who wants to get started in the world of Officina delle Essenze?
It's impossible to answer with just one fragrance. The advice I can give to those who want to try something new is to do so without prejudice, simply approaching the experience like a child. Smell with your nose but listen with your heart, without being influenced by the technical aspects that perfume brings with it..
Let yourself be moved. If the perfume tells you something, if it awakens some memories, you will feel it. And above all, give perfumes the right time to express themselves. Don't judge them at first. Like songs that stand the test of time, at first you may not be convinced, but over time they enter more and more into one's heart.
What is your iconic perfume?
Definitely Pure Linen, my first creationAs they say, first love is never forgotten!
"If the perfume tells you something, if it awakens some memories, you will feel it. And above all, give perfumes the right moment to express themselves. Don't judge them at first sight."
What would you say to someone who doesn't know Officina delle Essenze?
For those who are not familiar with us, I suggest you start doing so, perhaps by purchasing the Discovery Kit containing a sample of the 12 Eau de Parfums.I hope you can find your fragrance there.
And what about those who know you very well?
To those who know us and have already chosen us, to the Spanish public in particular, a most sincere thank you. Also thanks to you. Office of Essenze celebrates its twentieth anniversary this year. A great achievement for a small artisan brand like ours!
